Laura
is one of the most historical places in this part of Australia.
It is a
small country town
in southern Cape York, north of Lakeland
Downs, and west of
Cooktown.
It's easy to drive through without even knowing where to turn into the
town, if you don't pay attention. But if you are interested in
history,
it is worth to stop for a
few things.
The town is known for some of the best Aboriginal rock art in
Australia, and there is
also
some interesting European history from the days of the old Palmer River
gold rush.
Split
Rock Art Site
When
you arrive from the south, about 15km before the town entrance is Split
Rock - one of the best and easiest accessible Aboriginal
rock art sites
around Laura.
It is up in the hills near the Laura
Aboriginal
Dance
Festival ground.
The
Town of Laura
Once
you arrive in the town, it looks like there is nothing but a roadhouse
on your right hand side.
On the other side of the road, soon you will see the Quinkan
Art Centre
- the right hand turnoff to the town is after it.
Aboriginal
History
The
Aboriginal art around Laura is called Quinkan
Art.
There is a
lot of
information about the area's Aboriginal history and art sites as well
as European history in this Aboriginal art and tourist information
centre.
European
History
Laura was also an important town during
the Palmer
River gold rush in the late 1800s.
Mining relics
are still
here, in the historical park in the main street. There is also an old
Laura - Cooktown railway bridge from that time.
Quinkan
Hotel
Across
the street from the historical park is the pub of Laura - Quinkan Hotel, UPDATE 2021 now called the Peninula Hotel. The
original pub burned down in 2002, so this is not the original building,
but it is still the town's only pub, with shady spots in the front,
under mango trees.
Accommodation
in Laura
Australia
Back on the Peninsula Developmental Road is a large camping ground, and there
is another small camping ground behind the
pub, which can get noisy and crowded. Nowadays there
is even a new motel across the street from the General Store, where you can also get fuel.
Jowalbinna
Camping and Tours
Just north of the town is another Aboriginal art experience -
Jowalbinna.
It is a camping ground run by two sons of the late Percy Trezise, and
they also run tours to show you some local Quinkan country Aboriginal
art sites.
Split Rock
Art Site
About
15km south of Laura is the Split Rock carpark.
In the end of the carpark is a picnic shelter and a track that takes
you up to the escarpment with views.
There are three different spots only a short walk away, the first one
is Split Rock.
The other two are Flying Fox and Tall Spirits.
These are only a very small part of the actual amount of Quinkan art in
the area.
Aboriginal
History
On the
Peninsula Dvelopmental Road is the Quinkan Art Centre.
Inside are lots of informative displays about the area's Aboriginal
history.
There is also some local art, and it is also the visitor information
centre of the area.
European
History
The area
also has some great European history. The township started as a
connection junction during Palmer River gold rush.
It
connected the Palmer River
Goldfields with Cooktown, which was established as the port for the
goldfields. In the
Mary Harris Memorial
Park are the steps of what used to be the Laura Railway Station.
And in
the northern end of
the town is the last railway bridge that was ever made, with gold
starting to run out before the railway reached Maytown.
The
trains did runbetween Cooktown and Laura for almost 100 years, the rest
of the transport was carried by a coach along what now is the Old
Coach Road between
Laura and Maytown.
Quinkan
Hotel
Unfortunately
the old Laura pub burned down in 2002.
But it has been replaced and is still the town's only pub.
Next to
the pub you may see an old Austin 7 - owned by Harold and Jenny
at the Grocery Store and Post Office next door. It is the exact model of the first
car that was ever
driven to the tip of
Cape
York - quite amazing.
Accommodation
in Laura
Laura
Motel
The latest addition is the motel, in the main street across
the
road from the General Store and Quinkan Hotel. It is the most modern
place to stay in town, with air conditioned rooms with all comfort.
Laura
Roadhouse Laura
Roadhouse has a camping ground on
the Peninsula Developmental Road. It is large and nowadays that the
road is sealed until Laura, popular with caravans. UPDATE the camping
ground now belongs to AngGnarra across the road, the roadhouse still
makes some great burgers.
Quinkan
Hotel
Like
most Aussie pubs, the Quinkan Hotel also has a few rooms to stay, and
behind
the pub is a small camping ground. The pub is closed most of the
wet season, but during the dry it is an alternative, although small,
camp ground if the one on the PDR is full.
Jowalbinna
Camping and Tours
North of
the town, where the racecourse and rodeo grounds are, is the turnoff to
Jowalbinna.
It is an Aboriginal camping ground run by the sons of the late Percy Trezise, famous for
finding a lot of Quinkan art sites.
The sons, particularly Steve Trezise, also run tours to some less
accessible sites.
Get
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guide totally for FREE.
It
contains information that helps you getting started with planning of your trip.
You get to make early-stages desicions such as when to go, how long time you
should take, how to get
there and get
around, where
to stay (general info), what
will it cost..
and a short insight to what is there to see and do in Cape York.
This complete 300 pages
travel guide is all you need before and during your trip. Besides the
background chapters on the peninsula's history and wildlife; and the comprehensive detail about all
the places (down to prices, opening hours and full contact
detail), it has invaluable information on at least 10 four wheel drive tracks,
at least 30 guaranteed FREE
camping spots on the Cape (and at least 150 on your way to
the Cape), at least 40 best
swimming holes, all mapped; as well as practical things -
from fuel, roads, wireless internet and mobile phone reception,
how to deal with the national
parks booking rules; and Aboriginal land entrance and camping permits
and alcohol restrictions - to vehicle preparation and accessories and necessary recovery
gear by my vehicle-recovery-guy partner).
Not to mention locals'
tips on how to spot that croc and palm cockatoo ;-)
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This site uses British
English, which is the English we use in
Australia.
Disclaimer:
Although
best efforts have been made to ensure that all the information on this
website is correct, this site is not to be blamed should there be a
mistake.
This is the ORIGINAL Cape York Travel Guide run Locally on the Peninsula.